has always been a brand built on seduction. That didn’t change when Haider Ackermann took the reins as Creative Director in 2024.

For Spring/Summer 2027, presented at Paris Fashion Week, the Colombian-born French designer delivered a masterclass in desire, exploring the tension between what we reveal and what we leave to the imagination.

“Sexuality does not need to shout. It can be silent and powerful: a tremor under the skin,” read the show notes. On the runway, that translated into a deliciously debonair wardrobe charged with sex appeal.

There were echoes of the refined sleaze of 1970s menswear in razor-sharp tailoring, silk outerwear and slicked-back hair. Low-cut tops exposed flashes of flesh beneath jackets, while sheer fabrics and fishnet added another layer of provocation.

Elsewhere, thigh-grazing denim cut-offs and moustachioed models looked as though they had stepped straight from the back issues of .

But it was the arrival of men’s thongs that really turned up the heat. Provocatively paired with fine turtleneck jumpers, sheer socks and polished loafers, they became less underwear and more styling proposition. Kinky, certainly, but always underpinned by refinement.

Ackermann has long pulled from the visual language of gay culture, but what makes his approach compelling is the refinement he affords even its grittier edges. Here, the men’s thong becomes the ultimate expression of that tension: provocative and unabashedly sexual, yet styled with the same precision as his razor-sharp tailoring.

For a house that has spent decades selling sex, Ackermann isn’t reinventing Tom Ford’s appetite for provocation; he’s expanding its vocabulary, proving that even the skimpiest pair of pants can have a place at the height of luxury.